Southwest USA Part 1

Southwest USA - Part 1

(Unless noted, all photos were taken by Mike Holland and Michelle Holland on this trip.)

To me, the most beautiful mountains in America are the Rockies. They are high, desolate, jagged, and grand. The last time I made a trip to the area around Arizona was in the year 1968 as a teenager with my family. My how time flies. My wife Beth and I had taken our children (who are now grown) to other places around the USA but not to that area. We were waiting for an ideal time to go, but one never came. Finally, we made a plan. My younger daughter Michelle and I would make a car trip, and Beth would remain home to take care of the dogs, flowers, and house. COVID-19 warnings or not, we would go. It turned out to be a great trip, and it was interesting to talk with others at the parks and hear their ideas on traveling this year. Most were sick and tired of the COVID restrictions and just wanted to travel and be free again. Remember the statement by General John Stark of the Revolutionary War: “Live Free or Die.” That was the spirit of the people who we met while traveling. They wanted to see the majesty and grandeur of God’s creation and feel the expanse and wonder of being in wide-open spaces again. People from all over the world are adventurous and love to venture into the unknown. It surprised Michelle and me how many different languages we heard. There were a lot of international travelers enjoying our national parks.

Souvenir license plates from our trip.

My granddad on my mother’s side loved to travel and he put the spark to travel in all of his grandkids. My first trip was in 1961 at the age of 12 with my cousin who loved to take slide pictures, my aunt and uncle, and my grandmother and grandfather. We went to Wyoming, Arizona, and all places in between. If you want to see that trip look up “Trip of Wonder” in the site contents page.

From the age of 12, I have loved to look at maps. Maps will rescue a person where electronic gadgets will get you lost. It was interesting to see the difference between where the gadgets directed us and the actual roads that the map showed.

FIRST DAY – Saturday, May 14, 2022

There is nothing like the excitement and anticipation of the start of a journey. We have in mind what we think it will be like, but we wonder what we will actually see and experience when we get there. My daughter Michelle has an all-wheel-drive SUV that we traveled in that did great in the snow and rain. I was responsible for the stuff packed in the back, and she was responsible for the stuff packed in the backseat and floorboard. It worked out well because if something was missing, we knew it. We tried to alternate the driving every two to three hours.

We left Waco, TX, that morning around 7:00 and headed out on the first leg of the trip: Highway 6 to Eastland, Interstate 20 to Abilene and Roscoe, and then north on Highway 84 to Snyder to Lubbock.

Stopping to eat.

Photo by Gabriel Cristóver Pérez

Between Snyder and Lubbock were windmills everywhere, the biggest concentration of them I have ever seen. The wind must blow there all the time. Then we continued up Highway 84 through Muleshoe to Clovis, NM. I had thought we would spend the first night there, but we were ahead of schedule. Back in 1968, the speed limit was 55 mph and now it is 75 mph, so we made much better time than I was anticipating. We continued on to Santa Rosa, NM, and spent the first night in the La Mesa Motel. Throughout the trip, we tried to stay in one-story motels that the car could be parked in front of. That way it was quick and easy to unload and load the car. Where ever we were at around 5:00 P.M. we would begin looking for a motel nearby to stay the night.

La Mesa Motel in Santa Rosa, NM

Unloading Car

You can see the landscape behind the motel.

SECOND DAY – Sunday, May 15

We were looking for a station that we had a gas credit card for but could not find one. Driving into New Mexico, the stations were often Allsup’s and Maverik. A regular credit card worked in all of them, so we experienced no problems.

We filled up with gas at a Maverik station and then headed west on I-40. Interstate 40 parallels or runs over most of the old Route 66 in the Southwest. My daughter had a Route 66 book along with us, so we looked up interesting stops and pulled over to check them out as we drove along. It was fun to visit all that nostalgia along the old highway. There were lots of gift shops with souvenirs to buy.

Since the 1930s, Clines Corners has been a popular stop for travelers along I-40/Route 66 in New Mexico.

Inside Clines Corners Travel Center.

We stopped to eat lunch at the Route 66 Travel Center on our way to Albuquerque, NM.

Michelle making a sandwich.

At Albuquerque, NM, we pulled off the interstate to drive the length of the old Route 66 through the city. We enjoyed seeing all of the midcentury motels, restaurants, gas stations, and signs.

A sign in Albuquerque highlighting the Mother Road.

The opulent Kimo Theatre in Albuquerque, which features art-deco style.

Then we jumped back on the interstate and stopped at a few trading posts.

We hadn’t planned to stop at the Continental Divide, but the traffic was almost at a standstill due to construction. We needed a breather and so exited to look around at a couple of souvenir shops and eat some ice cream.

Yellow Horse Gift Shop in Lupton, AZ.

We finally arrived at Holbrook, AZ, where we spent the second night. Before looking for a hotel, we visited the quirky Rainbow Rock Shop. Unfortunately it was closed, but there was still plenty to see from the outside.

The Rainbow Rock Shop in Holbrook, AZ.

This town loves dinosaurs! We spotted these as we drove around.

The Econo Lodge in Holbrook, AZ.

The lunar eclipse on Sunday, May 15, 2022.

That night we had a great view of the “blood moon,” or total lunar eclipse, just outside our motel room. We and other guests were talking about it and watching it through binoculars.

The interstates make quick time of a lot of miles. We were doing well and still ahead of schedule. Since we were getting close to the Grand Canyon, Michelle made hotel reservations online for the next two nights. She thought we might get to the towns after dark and wanted to make sure we had a room to spend the night in. She was right!

THIRD DAY – Monday, May 16, 2022

The next morning we filled up the gas tank at the Maverik station in Holbrook. The day before we had driven past Petrified Forest National Park to spend the night so that we could start viewing the park fresh the next morning. To reach the park, we backtracked east down Highway 180 to Woodruff.

Overloaded car with a big chunk of petrified log in the back.

Here we turned north and drove through the park, which was just beautiful with many different rock formations and colors. The park road passes over I-40 and then makes a circle back to the visitor center to the north entrance on I-40.

At the entrance to all the national parks they give you excellent maps with the lookout points, trailheads, and bus routes recorded. Be sure to study them carefully before you begin your adventure. They will make your trip much more effective and timely.

Inside the visitor center, we explored the informational Rainbow Forest Museum.

When polished the colors are just beautiful.

A beautiful determined flower in the middle of a desert.

Notice the walking trail down in the canyon.

Another walking trail. If you look carefully, the small specks along it are people.

After finishing up at the park, we drove back onto the interstate and headed west again.

Billboard at the Jack Rabbit Trading Post on Route 66 in Joseph City, AZ.

We both wanted our picture taken in front of this fun sign!

A large cycling group met at the Jack Rabbit Trading Post that day and set off down Route 66 as we walked inside.

Entering Winslow, AZ.

Of course we had to stop in Winslow, AZ, to pay homage to the Eagles.

Cool red truck.

The Eagles’ song “Take It Easy” is about this corner.

After Winslow we stopped at one pullout famous for good views of passing BNSF trains. This is exit 211 on I-40. It’s a great place to film trains. You will need your telephoto lens and a tripod, because the trains are in the distance.

Trains come through here often, you don't have to wait long.

Again we left the interstate on the east side of Flagstaff and drove on the old road (Route 66) through the heart of the city. Lots of interesting sights. Next stop was Williams, AZ, on Highway 64. The Grand Canyon Railroad runs from a station there in the morning to the Grand Canyon, and then later in the afternoon it returns to Williams. My dad worked for the Santa Fe railroad years ago, so I was raised appreciating trains.

Williams Depot in Williams, AZ, where the Grand Canyon Railroad departs in the early morning and returns in the late evening. It runs all the way to Grand Canyon Village at the South Rim near the El Tovar Hotel.

In 1901, the Santa Fe Railroad completed a 64 mile branch line from Williams to Grand Canyon Village at the South Rim. The first scheduled train to carry paying passengers of the Grand Canyon Railroad arrived from Williams on September 17 of that year. To accommodate travelers, the Santa Fe designed and built the El Tovar Hotel, just 20 feet from the Canyon Rim.

The hotel is one of the Harvey House facilities that are still in operation, and is an early example of the style that would evolve into National Park Service Rustic architecture.

After touring Williams we filled up with gas and headed north on Highway 64 towards the Grand Canyon. That night we stayed at the Grand Canyon Inn in Valle, AZ, just about 30 miles south of the entrance to the park. In front of the inn were vintage cars and trucks that were fun to look at.

Grand Canyon Inn in Valle, AZ.

Next to the Inn was a filling station/museum with lots of antique classic cars.

A beautiful blue 1957 Chevrolet.

FOURTH DAY – Tuesday, May 17, 2022

What an exciting morning to think that in just about an hour we would have our first view of the South Rim at the Grand Canyon. I had been thinking about this for years and now it was a reality. We entered the park and stopped first at the visitor center on the rim of the canyon, and from there we walked to Mather Point for the first look. Wow, indescribable! The expanse, vastness, size, and beauty of the canyon just takes your breath away and gives you chill bumps. No picture can impact you the way the real thing does. It is a big, big canyon and your senses get the message: one mile deep and around 30 miles to the other side at the North Rim. Wonderful! There are no words to describe its effect on your senses. It’s huge!

Michelle at Mather Point.

At the entrance to all the national parks they give you excellent maps with the lookout points, trailheads, and bus routes recorded. Be sure to study them carefully before you begin your adventure. They will make your trip much more effective and timely.

View from Mather Point - A wonderful first view of the canyon!

Another view from Mather Point

At the visitor center, the Orange Route Buses make runs every 15 minutes to the east side of the South Rim. Several stops, including the trailhead of the South Kaibab Trail, are accessible only by bus. You cannot drive your car to the Kaibab Trailhead. We rode the Orange Bus later in the afternoon. After looking at different overlooks at the visitor center, which were awesome, we drove over to the village area near the lodges where we found plenty of parking. You may have to walk a distance if you get there later in the day. Here are the famous Bright Angel Lodge and Bright Angel Trail entrance, as well as stalls for the mules that go down the trail to the bottom of the canyon.

Mule Barn at Canyon Village

The famous view from the El Tovar Hotel on the South Rim. The cottonwood trees at Indian Gardens in the center of the picture are 4 ½ miles down the trail, but they look much closer.

The Bright Angel Fault runs from the middle of the bottom of the picture to the top of the horizon at the North Rim. The Bright Angel Trail runs down to the river, which is in the middle depression of the picture running east to west. The North Kaibab Trail runs from the river through the depression all the way to the top middle of the picture which is the North Rim.

Mike behind the El Tovar Hotel.

I’m 73 but have always wanted to walk down into the Grand Canyon, so my daughter and I struck out down the Bright Angel Trail. Our goal was the second trail tunnel about a mile down the trail. My daughter had no problems, but I’m not as young as I used to be. Almost to the second tunnel, my legs gave out. I think that if I’d had some climbing poles I could have made it. I had to rest and then slowly come back out. One thing seemed weird to me. Looking down walking into the canyon gave one perspective and the trail did not seem very steep, but looking up walking out is very sobering as the trail looks much steeper from that vantage point. I will always remember looking upward at the vertical ascent from about a mile down the trail thinking, “Oh no, I have to walk all the way back up there.” Not the way I envisioned it. My daughter Michelle had no problems, but the upwards journey was tough for me. We made it out, and I respect the trail now more than ever. The trail reminds me of steps. You take two or three strides and then step down over a log that can be 12 inches below. It is not easy unless you are young or in shape! The upper part is level, but as you go down farther it gets steeper with more ruts.

Photo by National Park Service

The upper mile of Bright Angel Trail is shaped like the letter “Z.” Michelle and I were on the bottom leg headed for the second tunnel at the end of the Z at the right when my legs gave out. That was a long walk back up for me. After the Z the trail zigzags down and goes over to the left of the picture which is the mile-and-a-half house. Then three miles down is another house to refresh and stop. Then it is another mile and a half down to Indian Gardens where the cottonwood trees are located (4 ½ miles total). If you want to go all the way down to the river, you add five more miles to that (10 miles total to the bottom). Needless to say, you better be young or in shape. This trail will humble you.

Entrance to the first tunnel near the top.

The trail is even and smooth near the top on the upper leg of the Z.

Michelle standing beside the first tunnel.

At this sign the trail turns to the second leg of the Z and gets steeper with more ruts.

Walking down the trail.

Enjoying the way down.

Going down.

The terrain down at about a half a mile from the top, in the middle section of the Z.

It gets rougher. (Photo credit: https://wandelingen-usa.nl/Grand%20Canyon/bat.html)

The perspective going down. (Photo by roadtripmajestic on Instagram.)

The perspective going up.
(Photo credit: https://www.purevacations.com/bright-angel-trail/)

After we came back up from inside the canyon, we looked at the famous views from El Tovar Hotel. We relaxed, ate lunch, looked at the historical exhibits in the hotel, and let my legs recover. You can see the inner canyon and the north canyon that the North Kaibab Trail runs through to the North Rim. Bright Angel Trail is ten miles long to Phantom Ranch at the bottom near the river. North Kaibab Trail is 22 miles from the river to the North Rim. The Grand Canyon is 30 miles from rim to rim and absolutely beautiful.

After looking around the views near the lodges and motels there, we climbed aboard the Red Route Buses that leave from the village center and go to different trails and views on the west side of the village. Buses run every 15 minutes, so you don’t have to wait long to catch the next one. My favorite stop was the first one at Trailview Overlook that gives a great view of the complete Bright Angel Trail down to Indian Gardens. It does not look that far as the crow flies, but believe me that it’s tough. You walk down a zigzagging trail for 4 ½ miles to get there.

I took it easy the rest of that day, letting my legs recover, but Michelle was a real trooper. She went down to almost every lookout point.

After returning from the Red Route lookout points, we jumped in the car and headed back to the visitor center. Again, the view at Mather Point is one of the best in the park. Wow! From here looking east you can see part of the South Kaibab Trail and Ooh Aah Point. We climbed aboard the Orange Bus and went around to the points on the east side of the canyon.

When we made it back to the visitor center it was getting late. We climbed into the car and headed out of the park. Just outside the park boundary on the east is Desert View Watchtower. Everyone tries to be there at sunset to witness the beautiful colors as the sun goes down. We were there and the colors were beautiful. Now it was dark, so we drove on to Cameron where we spent the fourth night. What a wonderful day. The Grand Canyon is number one on my list of national parks.

Beautiful Karamursel