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Southwest USA 2022 - Part 2

FIFTH DAY - Wednesday, May 18, 2022


Cameron Arizona, I can still remember the anticipation and excitement being here as a 12 year old boy in 1961.  Then we had driven down from Utah and stopped here at a gas station.  I was bouncing up and down in the backseat of grandads Studebaker car as we turned east toward the South Rim.  That trip in 1961 sparked an interest to travel that has never diminished.  Good memories are so precious.  As I get older more time is spent in nostalgia land.


I was reminded again that the destination is just part of the trip, the journey to get there is a vital part as well.  What wonderful memories, the people that you meet, the gift shops, the groceries, the gas stations, the food, and the motels - that makes for a complete trip.  A road trip will re-energize with excitement and adventure the coming year.


We checked out of our hotel that morning and headed for the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

The scenery around Cameron on the east side of the South Rim. This was the view behind our hotel.  There are small canyons everywhere.

Vintage old bridge in Cameron next to our motel.

Beautiful Post Office at Cameron.

As the crow flies, the North Rim is 30 miles from the South Rim.  You can look across the canyon and see the other side.  However, if you want to drive from the South Rim to the North Rim, the trip is 220 miles long and takes 4 1/2 hours.  You make a big loop around the east side of the canyon.  The park runs shuttle buses that make the trip in five hours from one side to the other for hikers who want to get back to their car after traversing the canyon.  We traveled north up Highway 89 to the Marble Canyon Overlook over the Colorado River.


Several times I noticed that we would be driving parallel to a beautiful ridge of mountains.  We would drive 40 to 50 miles beside a ridge line and then turn into them where a pass existed.  This was very noticeable as we left Cameron Arizona driving north and also in the middle of Utah driving east on interstate 70.  The mountains were just beautiful!


At Marble falls it looks just like your are driving head on into the mountain, then then you see a small narrow pass that opens up just wide enough for the Highway.  Just before you head into the mountain pass, you come to the bridge below over the Colorado River.

Marble Falls is where the highway meets the Colorado River before it gets to the Grand Canyon.  There is a nice pullout to look at the bridge and river gorge before going through the pass and then west.  Notice the mountain ridge in the background.  We had been driving along ridges like it every since we left Cameron.  The ridges were running north and south.

Looking north.  Parallel to the highway bridge was a pedestrian bridge where travelers could enjoy spectacular views , rest rooms and a gift shop.  A great place to get out of the car, stretch your legs and relax.

Colorado River, Marble Canyon.  The river looks so tame in places, but there is a tremendous amount of water flowing downstream here.

After the Marble Canyon Overlook and pass the landscape opened up into a beautiful wide area shown above.  Then as we drove along we started climbing again, up and up and up.  The North Rim is at a higher elevation than the South Rim and is closed for the winter months.  It had been open for one week when we arrived.  Our Magellan GPS gave the altitudes and was handy and fun to keep an eye on.  We started out in Texas around 500 feet above sea level.  As we made our way northwest over Texas, it began to increase.

Then we continued to Jacob Lake on Highway 89 Alternate.  Then on Highway 67 we headed south to the North Rim entrance.

Entrance at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

Me too!


The North Rim is over 8000 feet in elevation.  There is one lodge, Grand Canyon Lodge, and one campground, operated by the National Park Service.  2022 reservations for Lodging are highly recommended.  Reservations for the North Rim Campground are required.  The lodge also provides food and beverage service.


The Park facilities on the North Rim are in a smaller area because it is not visited as much as the South Rim.  The North Kaibab Trailhead begins here just north of the lodge.  About a 30-minte walk down the trail is a beautiful overlook at Coconino Point that allows you to see the upper part of the trail as it begins to descend deeper into the canyon.

Coconino Overlook looking down onto the upper part of the North Kaibab Trail 30 minutes down from the trailhead. (Photo by Internet Brothers)


There is no parking lot at the trailhead for the North Kaibab Trail.  People were parked in steep ditches all along the side of the road to access it.  That needs to be improved.

The parking lot at the North Rim is located next to the Bright Angel Fault that contains the North Kaibab Trail.  The canyon and trail starts here.  The left side of the picture is north.  The picture is looking east.  You can walk along the parking lot and look down into the canyon near where the trailhead starts.  The views were beautiful.  You can drive around to the overlooks on the east side of this canyon at the top of picture if you wish.   See maps below.  There is plenty to do.

Look at the map above.  There is a drive that you can take around the upper canyon that is around 30 miles long.  From it you can get a different perspective of the beginning of the North Kaibab Trail and canyon.

Another view from near the parking lot at the lodge.

Photo Credit: https://www.roundtheworldmagazine.com/north-rim-grand-canyon-trip/


View from Bright Angel Point


Bright Angel Fault down to the Colorado River.  This fault is 22 miles long and contains the North Kaibab Trail.  The average person walks at 2 miles an hour.  Every 30 minutes you walk a mile.  Then you have to deal with uphill grades and narrow trails with sheer cliffs.  As they say "It ain't easy".  This trail is not for everyone.


At the last place I worked before I retired, I worked with an employee who worked at the Grand Canyon as a mule driver for several years.  He had been on all the trails there at one time or another.  He said his 70 year old grandma walked down to ribbon falls from the North Kaibab Trailhead with him and returned.  All I can say is "Wow!!  Everybody is different, you just cannot tell how fit some people are by looking at them.

Behind the Lodge near the trail going out to Bright Angel Point.  While taking this picture, we ran into a group of cyclists from Tucson, AZ, they were enjoyable to talk with.  They had an ambitious ride planned to tour the Grand Canyon area.

At trail head to Bright Angel Point.


Many people were taking advantage of our wonderful parks.  "While traveling in the past I've never seen so many hikers and campers - of all ages and nationalities - as this trip.  Mountain bikes were everywhere and trailheads seemed to be packed full of cars at the parking lots.


We left the North Rim driving north up Highway 67 to Jacob Lake.  Then we took Highway 89 Alternate to Fredonia where we gassed up.  Then on to Kanab to Orderville to Hatch where we spent the fifth night at the Hatch Station Motel.  This motel had a restaurant, a grocery store, and lodging.

Hatch Station Café and Motel in Hatch, UT.

The motel rooms of the establishment.

SIXTH DAY - Thursday, May 19, 2022


That morning we loaded up and then drove the few miles to Bryce Canyon National Park. The colors in this park were indescribable. In my opinion, this is one of the most under-publicized parks in the US. Pictures do not do justice to its expanse and beauty. On this trip, Bryce Canyon was second only to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. We loved it. Here as well are lots of hiking trails down into the canyon, and you can watch people traversing the canyon—on foot and on animal—with binoculars.

We met a sweet couple near the entrance sign who offered to take our picture.

The wind was really blowing that day, so we were careful not to lose our hats in the canyon!

Bryce Canyon Map.  You drive in from the north and stop at the visitor center first.

An amazing tree making the most of what it had to work with.

Beautiful unique formations!

This park was loaded with hiking trails everywhere.  Way in the distance we could see what was either horses or mules carrying people.

The oddly named but still awesome “Natural Bridge” formation.

On the way out we drove through two tunnels.


We finally tore ourselves away from the beautiful views and headed away from the park. Back then to Highway 89 to Big Water in Utah to Glen Canyon Dam in Page, AZ. Driving on that road between Kanab and Big Water, we noticed several dust devils across the landscape—some little, some quite large. They really stirred up the dust! Below is an image of one, and if you click on the link it takes you to a short video.

Photo above and video below by Alex Lubbers.


Watch this YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QflTmp7-fU


We spent the sixth night at Page, AZ, in a Travelodge. The last time I was here in Page was in 1961, when only about 100 feet in height of the dam was built. What a difference now.

The sign present in 1961.  Photo taken by Allen Gimon

Photo taken by Allen Gimon in 1961.


The dam and bridge today.  The visitor center is the white building to the left of the dam.  There is a huge parking lot also to the left of the visitor center.

Dam, bridge, and visitor center on right.

Travelodge in Page, AZ.



SEVENTH DAY – Friday, May 20, 2022


After getting gas in Page, we took Highway 98 to Kaibito to Highway 160. Then up to Kayenta. Then 163 thru Monument Valley to Forrest Gump Point to Mexican Hat to Bluff, UT.

Approaching Monument Valley.

The Monument Valley Navajo Nation Welcome Center was interesting. Inside you read about the history of the area and then had the opportunity to shop at several souvenir shops outside, dubbed the Monument Valley Navajo Market. You could either drive your car or ride an open tour vehicle around the different rock formations. The land there is covered with fine red sand, and it was very windy that day.

The view outside the Monument Valley Navajo Nation Welcome Center.  It was chilly that day, people were wearing their windbreaker jackets or sweaters.

To drive through the heart of Monument Valley requires driving on unpaved roads. We decided to stay on the paved highways and found plenty of scenic pullouts.

Notice the fine red sand.

Driving Northeast

Remember the movie “Forrest Gump”? On Highway 163 at mile marker 13 is the point in the movie when Forrest stopped running. You are looking downhill to a long, straight road that runs eventually uphill again into the rocky butte formations on the horizon. As we drove along, signs began to appear advising drivers to slow down to 35 mph and not to stop. But at milepost 13 we saw lots of people stopped and standing in the road taking pictures of themselves with the famous view. Of course we stopped too and did the same.

Forrest Gump Point, Highway 163, milepost 13.

We enjoyed watching this guy pose for pictures in the middle of the road.  Notice the others on the left waiting for their turn.


Next we passed Mexican Hat, named after a rock formation that looks like someone wearing a sombrero.

The Mexican Hat landmark. It’s easy to spot from the highway!


The Bluff Fort Historic Site was one of those gems you sometimes run across. The fort was not a military fort but a settlement for the people who took part in the arduous “Hole in the Rock” expedition. It shows the indomitable spirit of the pioneers who built communities in the American West. We watched two short historical films on the expedition and then toured the structures—both homes and communal buildings. The way it worked was you pushed a button in the doorway of each structure and heard a five-minute recording that explained the way of life then.  They gave details about the different individuals who lived there at the fort. A good book to read on this epic expedition is “Hole in the Rock” by David E. Miller. The pioneers of that era were tough, resourceful people. We have it easy compared to their hardships. What a difference to be able to travel in an air-conditioned car on paved roads compared to an open-air wagon going at a walking pace over ruts and bumps. The early settlers could only travel about 10 miles each day.

Bluff Fort Historic Site. We stopped here to eat sandwiches but found much to see and experience—including some delicious homemade cookies for sale!

There were seven or eight of the replica small log houses showing the conditions and the implements used by the settlers.

Old horse-drawn tools.

The “hole in the rock” that the expedition used to get through the mountains. (Photo by National Park Service)

Painting of the Hole-in-the-Rock Expedition by Lynn Griffin. (Photo courtesy of Ensign Peak Foundation, https://ensignpeakfoundation.org/hole-in-the-rock-expedition/hole-in-rock-painting/ )

“The Last Wagon,” by Lynn Griffin, depicting the final wagon to make its way through the “hole in the rock.” (Photo courtesy of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints,


https://www.churchofjesuschrist.org/media/image/pioneers-wagon-hole-in-the-rock-5950d2e?lang=eng)


After learning a lot at Bluff Fort Historic Site about a fascinating historical event we’d never heard of, we took Highways 162 and 41 to the Four Corners Monument. This is the only place in America where four states meet at one point.

You have to wait your turn to walk on the spot where the four states meet.

A windy day.

Weird guy getting the full experience.


Next we headed down 160 to Cortez, CO, where we spent the night at White Eagle Inn.

Leaving Four Corners Monument

Heading into Colorado from Four Corners

We'd looked in several stores for a nightlight and were proud to have finally found one!

That is the one thing missing in motels.

Nice Motel

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